Where we've been: Trip Progress Map & Resources

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M A Y / 0 6

 

Always in Bloom, Quebrada de Cafayate, Argentina

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Thursday May 25 2006

Who the Hell Is Dr Hofmann Anyway?

During our travels Doctor Hofmann made appearances all over Argentina, and I think I saw him in Rio de Janeiro too. I saw him on a cement culvert at the side of Hwy #3 on the Atlantic coast, he eyed me on yellow and black "curvas peligrosas" road signs, on bus shelters (such as this one near San Juan) and on beaten-up corrugated steel fences throughout Patagonia.

Dr Hofmann is a roving global art-project. Named after the Chemist who created LSD, the Dr Hofmann project is a new kind of trip. The anonymous creator of several logo-esque graphics travels the globe stencilling walls, gates, telephone poles, abandoned buldings, you name it. The "tags" are photographed and published. She/he also encourages followers to do contribute to the project by wearing a stylin' Dr H T-shirt (yup, available online) to a popular landmark, then snapping a photo and submitting it to the online photo gallery. The site is a mix of shameless self-marketing, images of mischievous vagabonding, and psychedelic graphics. Tag on Dr Hofmann!

 

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Alia Musica from Spain interpreted several original compositions from Chiquitania in San Javier's magnificent Jesuit Church.

 

Going for Baroque  

Santa Cruz was humming to the riffs of harpsichords, lutes and sopranos this past week during the International Baroque Music Festival. Frank and I took in a bunch of concerts performed in restored Jesuit churches in Santa Cruz and in the village of San Javier, a former Jesuit Mission during the 1600-1700s. Favourite performances were by Florilegium from Britain, who played with four young soloists and a choir from Bolivia's music-rich Chiquitania region and AméricAntiga from Brazil, a handsome bunch of singers and musicians who performed a lively set of Brazilian early music.

 

The church in San Javier at sunset.

 

Colourful paintings in relief rendered in the folksy Jesuit style, San Javier.

 

Walls, windows, arches and doorways are punctuated by decorative frescoes, San Javier.

 

detail of an exterior fresco, San Javier

 


Monday May 1 2006

Chao Argentina, Ola Bolivia 

 

Border crossings make me nervous. The crossing from Argentina into Villazon, Bolivia was a breeze, if not a bit of a culture shock. Customs didn't even take a peek into the van, making our attempts to conceal five cases of Argentine wine a waste of time.

 

After nine and a half months of traveling, we have come full circle. We are back in Bolivia. It feels strange to be back. Santa Cruz feels like home in some ways. I have friends here, and I know my way around. We planned to be back for the International Baroque Music Festival, which is now in full-swing (more on that later). Now, I am trying to absorb the sights, sounds, flavours, frustrations and wonders of the previous months... and am asking myself "what next?". The Grand Albino Rhino Tour will be a tough act to follow. Stay tuned.

 

 

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all photographs lindsay simmonds ©2005/2006