Paddling in circles

As we paddled northward to the Rio Ramis delta, we left the sandy beaches of the southern peninsula behind us. A long spit of land led us away from shore and into a mass of green totora reeds. This rigid aquatic grass, still used for building reed boats, grows in beds that can extend several kilometers into the lake.

Locals have cut a maze of channels through the dense reed beds - but many end abruptly or lead into a lagoon with several exits - making it extremely easy to get lost (which we often did).

In places, the reeds were so thick and the water so shallow, we were forced out of the boat and into the water, pushing the kayak as we sank into the muddy lake bottom.