Sicuani is a pretty spot a few hours walk or paddle from Copacabana. There are a couple of low-key tourist operations run by enterprising locals who also farm, tend animals and harvest totora reeds.

We first got the idea to kayak on the lake when we were here in early January 2004. What a great feeling to paddle back eight months later and celebrate with a frosty "Huari", Bolivia's finest cerveza.